The comedian and filmmaker keeps his kids in mind when choosing where to eat out, and says restaurants deserve grace as they cope with the pandemic fallout.
byAzucena Rasilla
W. Kamau Bell is waiting for his meal at Itani Ramen, one of his favorite Oakland restaurants, as he thinks back to the lockdown and social-distancing days of the pandemic.
He remembers how famed chef Tom Colicchio predicted COVID-19 would lead to the demise of the restaurant industry in the early days of the pandemic. Yet, Bell marvels at the resilience of some local restaurants that are still afloat, some surviving solely on takeout. Do they own the building? Are they thriving through private events? Are delivery apps their lifeline?
What he does know is that he’s happy his children are growing up in The Town, where the range of cuisines is wide and always expanding. Bell has firmly instilled his love for the culinary diversity of the Bay in his children, ages 12, 9, and 5. His oldest loves tres leches cake, a sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk—evaporated, condensed, and whole—and frosted with whipped cream.
“As a society, including our leaders, we must ask ourselves: ‘Do we value restaurants? Do we like what they bring to communities?’ One of the things that makes the Bay Area is the diversity of food and the diversity of restaurants.”
W Kamau Bell
“There are places in the country where you can grow up, and there might be people there who make tres leches cake, but you don’t know them. They don’t have a restaurant. You will go your whole life without ever having tres leches cake,” he said. “Whereas, the first time my daughter had it was somebody’s birthday party. You can find it in stores. It’s there. It’s available.”
He says his highest compliment for Bay Area cuisine is that his kids hate McDonald’s.
“They’re so spoiled. And I don’t mean spoiled in a money way,” he says. “But in food choices, in that cultural experience.”
The comedian and Emmy-award-winning host and producer has never shied away from sharing his informed opinions on a range of topics, including dining out in Oakland and the restaurant industry in general. Bolstering his culinary credentials, Bell made an appearance as a guest judge in episode 5 of the current season of Bravo’s Top Chef.
“As a society, including our leaders, we must ask ourselves: ‘Do we value restaurants? Do we like what they bring to communities?’ One of the things that makes the Bay Area is the diversity of food and the diversity of restaurants,” he said. “I travel all over the country, and you go to small towns, and when you try to find where to eat, there are two places: one closes in half an hour, and the other place isn’t good.”
After supporting many of his favorite local establishments throughout the pandemic, he knows a thing or two about takeout. While restaurants were shut down, he frequently ordered takeout with a mix of food for the whole family and “fancier food” for dates at home with his wife.
“There’s a Chinese restaurant that I use an app to order for pick up, and when I went to get the food, they asked me to call them instead to place the order,” he recalls. “They’ll make a bigger cut. Why wouldn’t I want them to make a bigger cut?”
Bell believes everyone deserves a minimum wage of $25 per hour, something California is in the process of implementing for healthcare workers only. He always tips, no matter if the service was poor, with 20% as his baseline.
“Just because I showed up ready to be served and it doesn’t happen the way I expect it, I shouldn’t take it personally. I have to be kicked out of a coffee shop to take it personally,” he said, referring to a 2015 incident when Bell got kicked out of the shuttered Elmwood Café. “Anytime somebody is serving you, and if you have the ability to, then you should tip.”
Bell shared three of his favorite Oakland restaurants and what makes them special with Nosh.
Itani Ramen
Details: 1736 Telegraph Ave, Oakland; www.itaniramen.com; open Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from 4 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
What he loves about the place: It’s one of his favorite places in Uptown, and he likes that they have a kid’s menu. “Melissa doesn’t like ramen delivered,” Bell said about his wife. “There are places that will send the noodles raw. But it’s more fun to have it all. I’m not going to cook it as well.”
Favorite things to order: Chicken ramen (no egg), and sloppy gyozas
Doña
Details: 3770 Piedmont Ave., Oakland; www.donaoakland.com; open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays with brunch service from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
What he loves about the place: “That’s where I did my last public event before the shutdown,” Bell noted, adding that he appreciates how family-friendly the restaurant is.
Favorite things to order: Guacamole, a carnitas bowl, and, most importantly, sangría
Colonial Donuts
Details: 3318 Lakeshore Ave., Oakland; colonialdonuts.site; open 24 hours a day
What he loves about the place: It’s a weekend activity with his family. “Sunday is donut day. They’re doing the lord’s work being open 24 hours a day.”
Favorite thing to order: Apple fritter
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Azucena Rasilla
Azucena Rasilla reports on arts and community for The Oaklandside. She is an East Oakland native and a longtime reporter on Oakland arts, culture and community. As an independent local, bilingual journalist,...More by Azucena Rasilla
